Extra 330Sc (107″)

Extra 330Sc (107″) Having been flying this model for two years already, in the orange scheme,when it was time to replace it there could only be one choice… The same one again! Very similar at least! With the help of PilotRc and AcroRc I built my new 107” Extra 330Sc, this time in green. The setup was easy, having tried all the components previously I knew it would give me the best possible results. Setup: (x1) Motor: GP Engines 123cc (x2) Exhausts: MTW-Silencer TD80K (x1) Propellor: GP Engines 27-12 Carbono (x1) Powerbox: Powerbox-Systems Mercury SRS (x8) Servos: (x4) Ailerons: Hv777 by MKS Servos (x2) Elevators: Hv777 by Servos (x1) Rudder : Hbl380 X8 by MKS Servos (x1) Motor: Hv737 by MKS Servos (x2) Batteries: OptiPower 3.500mAh 2S (x2) Receivers: Futaba R6203SB Accessories: (x1) Scale pilot 35% by G-force Aircraft (x1) Powerbox-Systems smoke pump (x1) Sparkswitch by Powerbox-Systems (x7) Alu Secraft servo arms (1,5” ailerons and rudder // 1,75” elevator) (x1) Lightweight premium servo wire by Powerbox-Systems (x2) Conector two4one by Powerbox-Systems (MPX) The build was easy, having already built my previous model. This version even came with the firewall already installed, resulting in just a few holes being required and everything being bolted straight on using the required spacers. Following the successful modification of the orange Extra to install the rudder servo in the tail of the fuselage, I did the same again this time, giving very positive feedback on the rudder. This eliminates the need for pull pull wires, and also leaves the rudder servo tray under the canopy free to install the powerbox on. On my return from Anji, China (link article) I had a new set of wings and elevators built by PilotRc. With a new profile and very different surface sizes and shapes. The result of these new surfaces are just as hoped. More aggressive than the original, but also easier to set up than my previous oversized attempt. I am really loving this model, something that I am sure you will see in the photos and videos as well as live at the years events! /* Portfolio Options Configuration Goes Here*/ #gallery div{ margin-left: 0px !important; margin-right: 0px !important; padding-left: 0px !important; padding-right: 0px !important; -webkit-transform: translate3d(0,0,0); } .lg-info{ position:fixed; z-index:3; left:10px; top:10px; padding:10px; margin-right: 70px; min-width: 300px; max-width: 400px; background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.5); color:#FFF; font-size:16px; } .lg-info h4,.lg-info h3,.lg-info h2 { color: white; text-transform:uppercase; margin: 0px; font-size: 17px; line-height: 17px; max-height: 40px; overflow: hidden; } .lg-info p { color: white; margin-top: 4px; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; max-height: 100px; overflow: auto; } /* Portfolio Options Configuration Goes Here*/ #gallery .tile:hover{ cursor: pointer !important; } /* - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -*/ /* Tile Hover Customizations */ /* Customize overlay background */ #gallery .crp-tile-inner .overlay, #gallery .tile .caption { background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.50196078431373) !important; } #gallery .crp-tile-inner.crp-details-bg .details { background-color: rgba(0,0,0,0.50196078431373) !important; } #gallery .crp-tile-inner .details h3 { color: #ffffff; text-align: center; font-size: 18px; } #gallery .crp-tile-inner .details p { color: #ffffff; text-align: center; font-size: 11px; } #gallery .crp-tile-inner .details h3 { margin-bottom: 0px; } (function($) { var tileParams = {}; if(0) { tileParams.approxTileWidth = 250; tileParams.approxTileHeight = 250; tileParams.minTileWidth = 200; } if(0) { tileParams.addBlock2Height = 80; } jQuery('#gallery').crpTiledLayer(tileParams); $( ".crp-light-gallery" ).each(function() { var id = $( this ).attr("id"); $("#" + id).lightGallery({ mode: 'slide', useCSS: true, cssEasing: 'ease', //'cubic-bezier(0.25, 0, 0.25, 1)',// easing: 'linear', //'for jquery animation',// speed: 600, addClass: '', closable: true, loop: true, auto: false, pause: 6000, escKey: true, controls: true, hideControlOnEnd: false, preload: 1, //number of preload slides. will exicute only after the current slide is fully loaded. ex:// you clicked on 4th image and if preload = 1 then 3rd slide and 5th slide will be loaded in the background after the 4th slide is fully loaded.. if preload is 2 then 2nd 3rd 5th 6th slides will be preloaded.. ... ... showAfterLoad: true, selector: null, index: false, lang: { allPhotos: 'All photos' }, counter: false, exThumbImage: false, thumbnail: true, showThumbByDefault:false, animateThumb: true, currentPagerPosition: 'middle', thumbWidth: 150, thumbMargin: 10, mobileSrc: false, mobileSrcMaxWidth: 640, swipeThreshold: 50, enableTouch: true, enableDrag: true, vimeoColor: 'CCCCCC', youtubePlayerParams: false, // See:, videoAutoplay: true, videoMaxWidth: '855px', dynamic: false, dynamicEl: [], // Callbacks el = current plugin onOpen : function(el) {}, // Executes immediately after the gallery is loaded. onSlideBefore : function(el) {}, // Executes immediately before each transition. onSlideAfter : function(el) {}, // Executes immediately after each transition. onSlideNext : function(el) {}, // Executes immediately before each "Next" transition. onSlidePrev : function(el) {}, // Executes immediately before each "Prev" transition. onBeforeClose : function(el) {}, // Executes immediately before the start of the close process. onCloseAfter : function(el) {}, // Executes immediately once lightGallery is closed. onOpenExternal : function(el, index) { if($(el).attr('data-url')) { var href = $(el).attr("data-url"); } else { var href = $("#crp-light-gallery li").eq(index).attr('data-url'); } if(href) { crp_loadHref(href,true); }else { return false; } }, // Executes immediately before each "open external" transition. onToggleInfo : function(el) { var $info = $(".lg-info"); if($info.css("opacity") == 1){ $info.fadeTo("slow",0); }else{ $info.fadeTo("slow",1); } } // Executes immediately before each "toggle info" transition. }); }); jQuery(".tile").on('click', function (event){ if(jQuery('crp-product-buy-button')) { return false; } event.preventDefault(); if(jQuery("fa") && !jQuery("zoom")) return; var tileId = jQuery(".tile-inner", jQuery(this)).attr("id"); var target = jQuery("#crp-light-gallery-item-"+tileId); target.trigger( "click" ); }); })( jQuery ); jQuery(window).load(function() {});

Chengdu J10 – Composite-Arf

Chengdu J10 – Composite-Arf There aren’t many jets like the J10, and fewer still like the one designed by the Elster team, made up by Ralph and Enrico.Capable of flying like a conventional jet and also amazing 3D maneuvers like a full on acrobatic prop plane.The build is no more complicated than a traditional jet, however trying to build it as light as possible really is a different type of challenge. In my case weight really was something that I wanted to keep down, even choosing the servos based on their weight rather than their specs, or using the full carbon landing gear struts and foam wheels. The traditional build for a J10 is using a JetCat P180Rxi, however having seen Ralph fly his with the new JetCat P220Rxi in Chile (link al evento), I knew that this was the way I wanted to go. It did involve some modifications to the turbine mount (needed to be extended) and also in the vector pushrods (as their usual position would have had them going through the turbine due to this being slightly larger than the 180) Setup: (x1) P220Rxi by JetCat (x1) Mercury SRS by Powerbox-Systems (x7) Servos: (x7) Ds1240 by MKS Servos (x1) Carbon struts by Elster (x1) Retract set C40 by Behotec (x3) Batteries OptiPower 5.000mAh 2S (x2 powerbox, x1 ECU) (x2) ReceiversR7003SB Accessories: (x1) Teleconverter by Powerbox-Systems (x1) Telemetrie Adapter by JetCat (x1) FOD Guard by JetCat (x1) Smoke pump by Powerbox-Systems (x1) GBR 260 UAT/Hopper tank (x2) Electrovalves (x1 1 action, x1 2 action) The hardest part of the build was actually the setup, as you have the possibility to trim say the elevator in three different ways (elevators, canards, or vector) I went for a very simple setup, which allowed me to have a single setup for the whole flight, no flight conditions, dual rates, etc… The gyro is always on, albeit with very little gain, in such a way that it does not need to be turned off or adjusted for any maneuver. This made setup much easier, with less risk of mistake in flight, just move the stick, which move everything always and have fun! My gyro setup for this model, with the Mercury SRS is as follows: Gyro set to DELTA -Gyro Aileron 1 – Left wing (Delta) -Gyro Aileron 2 – Not used -Gyro Elevator 1 – Right wing (Delta) -Gyro Elevator 2 – Vector elevator (delta mix does not affect exit GE2) -Gyro Rudder 1 – Rudder -Gyro Rudder 2 – Vector rudder The remaining channels are free to be set up from the radio: -Canard -Retracts -Brakes -Nose wheel -Throttle -Smoke One thing that is important, before flying was to assure that the gyro channels (and there are a lot of them!) are all correcting in the right directions. Check it twice! The center of gravity was something that I didn’t even measure, as I know from previous experience that the model should balance on its rear landing gear, and I built up all components with that in mind. You should be able to lift the nose off the ground by an inch and have it balance there, able to bounce back down or bounce up equally. The first flight was a big moment. But everything went very well and the feeling and basic configuration worked perfectly. I am getting more and more used to this model and really enjoy the new challenges in its flight but the amazing results. Photos and video really do not do this model justice.

UltimaTun – Jet Model Factory

UltimaTun – Jet Model Factory In 2015 I had the opportunity to try the Ultima-Tun from the Spanish manufacturer Jets Model Factory, and I have to say that within the sport jet category, it is of the best I have ever flown. It may not be as fast as my Ultra-Flash, but it doesnt intend to be. What it does have however is amazing precision (aided by the speed of the MKS Servos) as well as surprisingly good flight characteristics for anyone who wants to enjoy a sport model or even someone early in their jet flying. In my case, despite the nice colour schemes available, I have been wanting yo do this colour scheme for some time, and with this jet I simply couldnt resist. Talking with Electron Retracts, they where able to produce an all black retract set, that would blend into the underside of the wing which was also to be painted black (as this model doesnt have gear doors, making it a simple and reliable jet for everyday flying) The result is brilliant, as well as the amazing electric breaks that can stop the model on a dime. The turbine chosen was the JetCat P100Rx that was initially going to go into my failed jet glider project. Being a middle of the range size for the model, it was interesting to see how well it pushes the model around the skys. As fara as electronics, I installed MKS D670 servos on all flying surfaces. With a torque of 15kg they are more than enough for the small deflections used, making the most of the gearing to gain speed, 0,09s to be precise. On flaps where you do require a greater torque I used the MKS 660+ servos, with 26kg of torque. All controlled by a Powerbox-Systems Cockpit SRS and powered by OptiPower 2150mAh 2S Lipos and a 5.000mAh 2S for the turbine.

Ultra Flash – Composite-Arf

Ultra Flash – Composite-Arf Following a couple of years enjoying flying turbines, but without having had the chance to own my own, with the help from Sebastián at iHobbies – JetCat Spain, I had the amazing chance to form part of the Team JetCat, and put together, this, my first jet powered model. I decided to go for the Ultra Flash as it seemed a model able to do it all, from fly slow, up to being blisteringly fast, while being very agile and resistant to all types of acrobatic flying. It is designed for turbines from 80N to 120N. Following multiple conversations with Sebatián, we decided to go for the new JetCat 140RX, which with just over 140N, power wasn’t going to be a problem! Decided on the plane, it was time to choose a colour scheme. Even though the Ultra Flash is not a scale model, I still wanted a jet that looked like a jet. Fortunately, my good friend Javier Izquierdo offered to help me with painting the model as I wanted, so I could go for the scheme I really wanted, that of the Swiss F5. Even though the model is far from being an F5, it does have certain aspects that are similar, and the colours make it a perfect choice (white on top and red on bottom, so visibility would not be a problem) With everything decided, I started ordering the equipment that I was going to use, which was: Ultra-Flash with Behotec retracts JetCat P140RX Powerbox-Systems Competition SRS Servo arms and other accesories by Secraft Servos: JR 8411 on all control surfaces and Hitec 7955 on flaps and nose wheel The idea was to build the model, and then paint it, so as soon as I started receiving parts, I got to work. Despite having put together many large scale models, the build was not as simple as I had expected. Not due to problems, simply by the amount of work required to put the model together. Putting the wings together I thought was going to be a simple task, just having to screw in the servos, install the legs and put in the air lines, however due to having to enlarge the hole for the legs, and build the servo supports, the whole process took longer than expected. To avoid small stones and sand being able to get into the wing through the undercarriage opening, I closed all this off with 3mm balsa, before using filler to create a seamless join prior to painting. The elevator servos are simply screwed to some aluminium angles supplied in the kit. The only down point here was having to sand the inside of the elevator slightly in order for the servo to fit correctly (despite the JR 8411 servos being slightly smaller than normal servos) The installation of the tail pipe, bypass and turbine was all very easy, simple putting each of them in their place in the right order. As indicated by the instructions, I lifted the turbine up about 5mm in order for it to be perfectly cantered with the tail pipe. In order to avoid having to use the auxiliary wing tank, I decided to take advantage that the Ultra-Flash comes with the option to use two “kidney tanks” which are 950cc each, and are installed at each side of the inlet/bypass. Once the inlet is in place, these can not move, however to assure them I also added a few spots of silicone. Due to taking longer to get the model finished that I had expected, the agreed date to paint it soom arrived, so I took out everything that I had installed, and with my friend Emilio went up to Madrid to paint it. With the help of the stencils and a paint booth, courtesy of a friend of Javier’s, in just two days we had the plane fully painted, just needing the decals and lacquer. I left the model in Madrid, in Javier’s capable hands, agreeing to return in order to pick it up again in a couple of weeks. After two weeks of messaging Javier daily, we went up to collect the model. And it was amazing, just as I had hoped! On returning home, it was time to get it finished, so started by re-installing everything that I had removed in the first place! For the front leg, I wanted to use the direct drive system, which has the servo integrated into the leg, as opposed to controlling it via pull-pull wires, which seem to always cause problems. Just like in the wing, in order to avoid stones or dust getting in the model through the undercarriage openings, I closed it off from the rest of the model, in such a way that the front leg and servo where completely isolated fromrest of the interior. The rest of equipment was quite simple to isntall, even though there where a lot of wires and air tubes to be connected in quite a small area. For all the servo connections I used Secraft servo arms, as due to the speed of the model, I really did not want to use plastic arms, and I knew that Secraft where the best option, especially due to the large array of lengths of arm available. I also used the Secraft ball links, as they are by far the smoothest that I have used, and for jets where your want the most precise linkages possible, these are perfect. (many other ball links that I have used, the ball part is much tighter, meaning that it doesn’t move as easily and therefore the control surface is not as smooth to operate) The Powerbox Competition SRS helped to reduce the number of wires as using SBUS 3ch Futaba receivers all connections where made with just one wire each receiver. This Powerbox also offers the advantage of being able to program servos, as well as the output mapping, output voltage, and more importantly indicate if there have been any fail safes, lost frames or holds. As for the turbine, the connections could not be easier. The new RX version of the JetCat turbines mean that you simply connect the Multiplex type connector from the ECU to the turbine, the square connector between the ECU and the fuel pump, a servo wire to the receiver for the throttle control and the turbine battery, easy, just four connections and you are up and running! All the electrovalves are internal, so there are no additional connections required, also having the advantage of just needing the one fuel line. With everything ready, it was time to maiden. The first flight went perfectly, and the feel of the plane was amazing. The model has a very clean flying style, very much like an F3A model. And of course, it is very very fast! In knife edge it did require a little mix, but that was quickly fixed. For landing, the flap trim was perfect, however we did have a problem. The main gear would not come out, leading to a belly landing. As bas as this sounds, there was no damage, other than minor scratches on the nose. It turned out that the festo tubing had kinked, meaning that no air could be let out to open the undercarriage. However by shortening the tubing we had the problem fixed. With a little sand paper and airbrush work I had the nose as good as new. With the next few flights I was getting more and more used to it’s flying characteristics, got the knife edge mixes sorted out, and all rates to my liking For landing it has quite a lot of down trim on the elevator to compensate for the flaps, but as this is mixed in with the same flan switch is not a problem. To aid in slow flight, I added a “butterfly” or “crow” mix, in which both ailerons go up, giving the wing more contact with the airflow even in slow flight The Jet Cat P140RX turbine is amazing, it works like an electric motor, being completely automatic, turning on by simply flipping a switch on the radio, spooling up, and having a very fast throttle response, what more can you ask for? Now that I have the model trimmed as I like it, I love it. It can do all types of acrobatic manoeuvres, both very precisely, and amazingly fast, and even though it is not an easy model to start with, it is not complicated to fly either. The turbine I can recommend to everyone, as it is truly plug and play, simply connect the wires in the only sockets they fit in, and go fly. So turbines no longer need to be considered complicated, with this one you can just go and have fun with jets time and time again

Sukhoi 29 (3,00m) – Krill Model

Sukhoi 29 (3,00m) – Krill Model For the season 2011, I have the inmense pleasure to be part of Team Krill .The model chosen was the most recent design by Sebastiano Silvestri, the Sukhoi 29, 37% in its second version (version 2011) which incorporates new “mega-ailerons” to be controlled by three servos per aileron, as well as a new rudder which gets wider at the tip, like in F3A, to improve precision, slow down downlines and increase the power of the rudder (as well as being a really cool place to put stickers!) I wanted for the colour scheme to be something a little different, I loved the “Razor” scheme, but wanted mine to be unique. After playing with colours, I decided to change the dark gray for black fading into dark blue, as well as some shaded areas. The underside was to be a very simple blue and white set of squares to assure great visibility in the air. When it arrived, the first thing that I noticed was the finish, it was perfect, and truly amazing. Both the finish and the great colurs made it really stand out, just what I wanted. When deciding the equipment to use, I decided to put it together as my dream plane, using all what I considered to be the best, this being: Powerplant: -DA 170 -Exhausts: RE-3 by MTW-Silencer Electronics: Powerbox-Systems: -Powerbox Royal RRS -Lipos 4.000mAh -Spark Switch -Smoke Pump -Powerbox-Systems Double servo connectors -Powerbox-Systems adapter cable Futaba-Multiplex Servos: JR 8911. x3 per wing, x2 per elevator and x3 on rudder Radio: FASST by Fuataba Revoc custom wingbags The building process was not complicated, despite me taking a little longer than usual due to being extra carefull to get the perfect finish just as I wanted it, finding the simplest but also safest and cleanest solutions possible. Starting with the wings and elevators, as with any model there is not much that needs to be done, simply gluing in the control horns, prepare the required extension leads, screw in the servos and hook up the control linkages.. Fortunately, to simplify the above Krill already drill the holes for the control horns for you, so this is something less for you to do. All the servos are “hidden” inside the wings and elevators. The elevator servos are installed through holes in each side of the stabs, where as the wings have a hinged access which hides the ribs to which we screw the servos. Once installed, we simply tape the access clodes, thus keeping an invisible access to the servos. For all the connections in the plane I decided to install the Powerbox-Systems extensions/connectors, as these use a Multiplex conector (which gives better security) along with a moulded plastic around the connector (assuring that no connections can be pulled off or broken) and also connecting two servos with just one connnector. *Click here to see more information about the Powerbox-Systems Multiplex double connectors. With the wings finished, we start with the fuselage. The first thing that stands out is the height of the fuselage is amazing, this will be great for knife edge, as well as giving us loads of space to install our equipment wherever we want without any kind of problem. I started with the engine and exhaust system. The DA170 is very easy to install, just having tomake the 4 holes needed and use the spacers sold by Krill for this engine. As I prefer not to bolt the engine straight to the stand offs, I put a plywood plate in between, as this gives the engine a better, flat surface to bolt to. Installing the RE3 tuned pipes by MTW-Silencer are just as simple as any usual exhaust system, with the only difference being their lenght. In order to get them to fit in the model I had to remove the pre-installed rudder servo mount. Fortunately I did not intend to use them anyway, and I could simply cut it out, as it is only glued to the formers and not actually to the fuselage. It took time, but I was able to get it out without damaging any of the fuselage or formers. To avoid that the exhausts could turn inside the model, I add a screw to the teflon which avoids them being able to go backwards either. For the smoke connections on the headers, to assure that the smoke lines could not slip off the nipples, I soldered an extra piece of brass tubing to the end of the nipple, thus giving a better grip for the smoke line, especially once held on with a cable tie. Now all we are left with are the electronics. This model was no more complicated than any other, however I wanted such a perfect electrical installation that I spent longer looking and thinking than actually building! The idea was to see as little wiring as possible, while still having everything accessable in case any changes where required on short notice. knew that I wanted to take advantange of the fuselage side reinforcements to install the rudder servo tray. As there was already a similar tray on top of the wing tube for the fuel tank, I made a thrid one, angled between the other two, on to which I installed the powerbox and receivers. Under this angled tray I also built a “safe box” which separated the wires from any heat from the tuned pipes. Knowing the placement of the powerbox, I could start routing the wires, amongst them the ones for the elevators and throttle. With the rudder tray prepared I could also up the required extention leads for the rudder servos also. Due to the rudder servos being very close to the exhausts, I decided to make a small divider, from 2mm balsa with a thin layer of fibre, which would avoid the heat from the exhaust being able to affect the servos. Using the same system I also closed off the area underneeth the powerbox, again assuring that no heat could affect the electrical components, or have any loose wires near the hot exhausts. On the same support for the Powerbox I also mounted the two receivers, this way being able to make all the conections between them under this support before screwing the whole unit into the model with just 4 screws. The ignition battery is placed at the very front of the model, thus gaining a little distance between the main electronics, and the engine electronics, as the Spark-Switch is situated just under the ignition battery. I chose the Spark Switch because it is so simple to use, with one channel it is either on or off, depending on the position of the switch (+100% or -100%) and no more adjustmeents are required. It also regulates the lipo down to 5,9v for the ignition. The screen on the Powerbox-Systems Royal RRS is not only very neat, but also very usefull, both for day to day flying (to help know the status of your batteries) and also during programming. It can also tell you if there have been any problems with either receiver or the signal during the flight. For this reason I made the raised support, which makes it visible even with the canopy on. Programming the Powerbox-Systems Royal RRS is very simple, especially with the screen to help. The power to the servos is obtained through x2 Powerbox-Systems 4.000mAh Lipos, which after extensive flights can give 4 long (15 min) flights, and have just over half left. You could easily get more flights from them safely, however I prefer to change them after 4 for peace of mind (just as I do with all my models) With the model finished, the range check and engine running all ok, it was time to take to the air!. The maiden was easy, flew straight, no problems or hitches, just a great first flight. Now, after many flights I am really loving the plane, it is amazing how agile the plane is (especially for being a 3m plane). The rolls are so fast, and the rudder is amazingly powerfull, great for hard or even new manouvers. The precision is great, it just goes in a straight line, no questions asked. And in 3D you can do anything yo want. After a great season, I have used the Sukhoi to win many rounds in Unlimited Imac sequences, as well as the Spanish freestyle championship the SXFC, and even getting an 11th place finish at the European EXFC. Even after all this, the more time that goes on the more I like the plane and the more used to it I get, so I am really looking forward to the results for 2012! Bring it on!! Since the EXFC I have modified the setup of the Sukhoi, and I now have x4 servos per aileron (as opposed to the x3 used before) and I changed the rudder pull pull system with x3 servos to direct drive with just one on each side of the fuselage (x2 servos) Many thanks to all my sponsors that have made it possible for me to put this model together. Martin Pickering Sukhoi 37% Krill Model

Extra 330Sc (92″)

Extra 330Sc (92″) I was fortunate enough to get to fly the first prototype 92″ Extra 330SC by PilotRC when I was in Shanghai at the end of 2015, and even though I am not normally a fan of 50-60cc airframes (proof of which the fact that I havent had one for years!) I actually really enjoyed this one. It flew almost like my 107″ version, which was a great surprise! So yes, finally there is a 50-60cc size plane that actually flys as it should, almost like a 100ccer! Pilot-RC really have done a great job with this one…. And like all 50-60cc it fits well in almost any car, you dont need help to manouver it at home or at the field and quite a bit cheaper than its larger scale counterparts Simply brilliant! Extra 330Sc (92″) Tuve la suerte de poder probar el primer prototipo del Extra 330SC de PilotRC de 92″ cuando estuve en Shanghai a finales de 2015, y aunque no tengo mucha costumbre de volar aviones de 50-60cc ya que por lo general no me gustan (prueba de ello que llevo años sin tener ninguno!) debo reconocer que me sorprendió gratamente las cualidades de vuelo que tenía. Volaba prácticamente como mi 107″ pero más tirón de motor, impresionante! Cómo ha podido por fin salir un 50-60cc que vuela realmente bien, casi como un 100cc? Pues eso es lo que Pilot-RC ha conseguido con este Extra 33SC. Cabe bien en el coche, no ocupa sitio, se puede maniobrar y manejar sin necesidad de ayuda, y su coste es bastante inferior a su hermano mayor que lleva el dóble de motor y varios servos más. Todo son ventajas! Upon returning to Spain, along with Emilio from AcroRc we built the second prototype, and its even better! It is now in production, watch the video and you will see why! The whole plane is designed to acheive the best flight specs and the result is just that. Whatever you tell it to do, it does it! These kits are now being sent out to all local dealers, so if you are looking for a new 50-60cc plane, this is your one, contact your local dealer! For Spain you can contact Emilio at Enjoy! Al volver a España, junto con Emilio de AcroRc hemos montado el segundo prototipo, y ya le hemos dado el visto bueno, ¡en el video veréis porqué! Todo el avión está diseñado para sacar el máximo rendimiento en vuelo, y el resultado es justo esto. Mandes lo que mandes hacer, el avión te lo hace. A partir de ahora, se están empezando a mandar estos nuevos Extra a los distribuidores de PilotRC, por lo que si buscas un buen avión para un 50-60cc, encarga el tuyo ya! Para España, podéis contactar con A volar!!

Katana 120 – Sebart

Katana 120 – Sebart Following the German Acro Masters 2010, on our way back to Spain, we took a detour through Italy in order to spend a couple of days with one of the worlds best designers and pilots, Sebastiano Silvestri. Even though these models can be put together in either electric, glow or petrol, I prefered to follow Sebastiano’s procedure, of using an electric motor. Furthermore, to assure the best possible system was used, after some conversations with Sebastiano and Hacker, I decided to go for the Hacker A-60-22S and it’s speed controller , the Jeti Spin 99. Having recently used Sävox servos in the 2.6m Sbach, I decided to use them in this Katana’S also. Even though they are much more powerful than what this model required, the speed and precision is a great advantage.The model used was the SC-1268MG, which on 7,4v have a torque of 26Kg at just 0,11s As I wanted to get the full power and speed from the servos, so I run them on 7,4V direct from a 2S lipo. However, as I did not want to have to use a powerbox to distribute full voltage to the servos and only 5,9v to the receiver, I managed to make a set of extension leads that end up with all positive and negative wires together, in such a way that these can go to the lipo, and an independent Powerbox-Systems regulator uses the same lipo to power the receiver at 5.9v The build of the model is very easy, and I did not encounter any real problems.The only process that slightly delayed the build was that the Robart hinges needed to be glued into their predrilled slots Bolting the servos in was just like in any model, using the included high quality accessories to attatch them to the control surfaces. Bolting the Hacker A60-22S on to the firewall was a very simple process using the motor cage also produced by Hacker-Motor, which allowed me to center the spinner to the cowl to perfection. The speed controller only requires to have the gold banana plugs soldered on and then attaching to the motor just in the same way as with smaller motors (three wires, which if the motor spins the other way simply swap two over. With the model finished, it’s time for the best part, the flight! Being my first electric model of a good size, the test flight was a new experience, but what an experience! From the take-off, it was obvious that there was nothing to be worried about and that the model was going to be very precise and smooth. Once correctly trimmed out with just a couple of clicks of trim, using the recommended surface setup the precision of the plane is quite amazing, but having said this, what else could I expect from a model designed by one of the greats of the F3A, as is Sebastiano Silvestri. With full throws we start trying all the different 3D maneuvers, and don’t seem to find any that it does not like doing.The only inconvenience is that a small mix is required from rudder to elevator, in my case %6 one way and 8% the other (due to the engine torque) With the throws set up as I like them is when I really started having fun. The model is a mix between a 3D shocky and a feel of a model quite a bit larger than it actually is, while also being very precise, allowing us to pointthe model anywhere we want. The high alpha maneuvers are surprisingly stable for the models size, I was especially surprised at how stable the positive harriers where, as in other models these are usually rocky with the Katana it is quite the opposite. With the electric motor, the 20*11E prop and full rates it is even possible to perform the anti-torque-roll, which other than in shockies is a very rare maneuver to see. The power plant is spot on, with an amazing power, possibly even too much. I have currently reduced the full power to 85% as it is almost too powerful for the model, and at 100% you never reach full power. So that you can see how it flies for yourselves, as well as shows this year you can find the first video and photos here: Katana 120 – Sebart Tras el German Acro Masters 2010 a la vuelta a España pasemos por Italia para pasar unos días con uno de los mejores pilotos y diseñadores del mundo, Sebastiano Silvestri. Tuvo el grandísimo detalle de proporcionarme un Katana 120 para que le haga un artículo. Aunque estos aviones se pueden montar eléctricos o con gasolina, preferí seguir las recomendaciones del fabricante y montarlo eléctrico. La propulsión usada fue un Hacker A-60-22S con su variador Jeti Spin 99. Habiendo usado recientemente los servos Sävox en el Sbach de 2,60m decidí meterlos en este Katana también, aunque son muchísimo más de lo que necesita el avión, la velocidad y precisión que tienen es impresionante. Finalmente monté los SC-1268MG, los cuales a 7,4v dan 26Kg de fuerza a tan solo 0,11s El querer usar estos servos a 7,4V pero sin tener que incrementar el peso del modelo con una centralita, hice un apaño de prolongadores en el cual todos los prolongadores del avión los cables positivos de los servos van todos juntos, al igual que todos los negativos, los cuales luego pasan a una lipo directa de 2S. El montaje del avión fue sencillo y sin realmente ningún tipo de problema. Las únicas partes que retrasaron ligeramente el montaje fue que las visagras Robart vienen sin pegar y la bayoneta de la profundidad fue ligeramente demasiado larga, pero la solución fue tan sencilla como de lijarle un milímetro de un extremo de la bayoneta. El montaje de los servos es como cualquier avión, aprovechando los las varillas y rótulas ya incluidas y atornillándolas a los horn de mando que pegaremos en las superficies móviles. La instalación del motor con la bancada de Hacker es muy sencillo de instalar el motor justo en el centro del carenado a la distancia necesaria para dejarlo a la perfección. Al variador le soldamos los conectores que queramos usar y lo conectamos al motor de la misma manera que en los motores más pequeños. Una vez terminado el modelo, toca la parte que más gusta, el vuelo. Siendo mi primero modelo eléctrico de grandes dimensiones el estreno fue algo novedoso y al cual tenía un cierto respeto. No obstante, una vez con velocidad de despegue se notó que no había nada que temer y que el avión iba a volar muy bien. Una vez trimado con solo unos puntos de trim usando los mandos cortos recomendados podemos ver que el avión traza muy bien. Con unos cuantos vuelo más para ajustar los mandos y exponenciales a nuestro gusto podemos apreciar que de verdad traza muy bien, aunque esto puede ser de esperar viniendo de tal maestro de F3A como es Sebastiano Silvestri. Con los mandos largos empezamos a probar maniobras 3D, y no encontramos ninguna maniobra contra la cual rechista el modelo. El único inconveniente es que es necesario una pequeña mezcla de dirección a profundidad, en mi caso de unos 6% hacia un lado y un 8% hacia el otro (por el par de motor) Ya con los mandos ajustados a nuestro mando empezamos a disfrutar de verdad. El modelo es una mezcla entre un corchito y un avión bastante más grande de lo que realmente es, siendo muy estable y fino, aunque al mismo tiempo lo podemos poner donde queramos. Las maniobras de high alpha el modelo es sorprendentemente estable por su tamaño, en especial me sorprendió lo estables que son los harriers positives, ya que normalmente en aviones de este tamaño son bastante inestables, pero en este es todo lo contrario Con el motor electric, la 20*11E y mandos a tope, incluso es posible realizar el anti-torque, una maniobra que menos en los corchitos es bastante raro de ver. La motorización es muy acertada, con una potencia increíble, incluso lo llevo reducido al 85% ya que no es necesaria tanta potencia ni en las maniobras 3D más agresivas. Pero para que lo veáis por vosotros mismos, aquí tenéis el primero de los videos y algunas fotos: