Powerbox-Systems: Evolution

Evolution The Powerbox-Systems Evolution has been for many years one of the most well known and most used powerboxes in large scale models. The advantage that the Evolution always had was that being the first in the range or powerboxes, its cost is kept down yet still implementing most of the functions used by its top of the range counterparts. This year 2010 Powerbox-Systems have updated the Evolution, including new heat disipators to assist with the cooling of the voltage regulators, as well as updating the styling of the Powerbox to fit in with the rest of their recently released products. Even though it is the simplest powerbox offered by the company, it still has the capability to connect two lipos, six chanels to mix to 16 servo exits, as well as voltage regulation, signal amplifyers… It also includes LED”s that show the state of the lipos as well as additional external LED”s that light up in the case of a low votage in either of the batteries. An advantage of this “simple” powerbox is that as it does not have adjustments for different parameters, it is very easy to install in the model, only needing to screw it in the model, connect the 6 receiver chanels to the “IN” sockets (connecting any additional servos directly to the receiver) and then connect the servos to the desired “OUT” sockets. The adjustment of the servos therefore is simply made with the transmitter with the usual functions, such as End Point, Sub trim and Reverse. I have been using and competing with the Powerbox-Systems Evolution for quite some time in my freestyle 2.60m – 2.70m planes and have been very happy with the results. Gaining also the peace of mind that all the servos are correctly powered and in the case of a servo shortcircuit that the powerbox would cut the servo off before causing damage to the receiver or plane.

Powerbox-Systems: Champion RRS

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Currently I am using them in my competition models, and in this article I will describe the reasons why and the advantages once programmed correctly. Recently Powerbox-Systems has renewed the design of their Champion RRS, now including anodised heat disipators and the option of supplying the servos with either 5,9V or if desired, 7,4V for todays new high voltage servos. Due to the flexibility of this powerbox, I ordered a further unit for my new Extra 260. Some of the main reasons why I chose the Champion RRS where: -the option to use two lipo”s and two receivers, adding redundancy to the whole system. (If one receive loses the sugnal, the powerbox automatically receives the signal from the second receiver) -The LED to display the state of the batteries, along with a screen to show the state of each receiver. -But the main reason, and in my opinion a feature that put it a step above the rest, is the capability of programming the servos of 3 of independant channels through the powerbox with the adjuster board, which once read the instructions is very easy to use. This avoids the need to use “Matchboxes” or the need to use Hitec servos for their programability. In total, there are 4 adjustable servos pero channel, giving a total of 12 programmable servos. The instalation in the model could not be easyer, by means of the same rubber grommet system used in most servos. The receivers are corrected by the patch leads included in the kit. You can plug the receive channels in the order that you wish, as long as the second receiver is plugged in using the exact same order as the first one (it is not necessary for ch1 of the receiver to be ch1 of the powerbox, however the ch 1 of receiver 1 and ch 1 of receive 2 must be in the same channel in the powerbox. The switch included in the kit is very safe due to the fact that even if completely unplugged from the powerbox, the system will not turn off. To turn the model on (or off) simply press the “power” button for one second until the red LED turns on, then press the buttons for batteries I and II and the green LED”s will now light up also to show that the batteries are turned on. You can programme the powerbox to work with either NiCd, NiMh, Lipo or LiIon betteries, however it comes set up already for use with Lipo. The capability to regulate the servos through the powerbox is a great advantage especially with the larger sized models that have more than one servo per surface, as we can assure that the servos do not fight each other. The typical example would be one of my aerobatic models, with two servos in ailerons or rudder. Programming servos through the Powerbox-Systems Champion RRS: To adjust the servos we use the Powerbox-Systems Adjuster Board, that is plugged into the side of the powerbox. To assure that the programming is completed perfectly, first we must have all the transmitter settings at 100%, without any trims or sub trims. For this example, we are going to programme two servos so that they move equally on one aileron, and that they are plugged into channel 3 in the powerbox, which is the programmable channel “A”. The first process is to teach the powerbox the throws available in the transmitter, and then the second step is to adjust the servos accordingly. We start by plugging in the Adjuster Board to the side of the powerbox. The first phase of teaching the powerbox the throws of the transmitter is completed as follows: -We move the first dial on the adjuster board to “A” and the second dial to “Reset” -Now we press the buttons “+” and “-” at the same time. (the yellow and red LED will light up on the adjuster board), -With the transmitter stick in the centre, we press the “+” button (so that the powerbox memorises the centre position) -Holding the transmitter stick at full throw, we press again the “+” button (so the powerbox memorises the full throw position) -We do the same for the oposite full throw, again pressing “+”. (so the powerbox memorises the opposite full throw position) -When we press the “+” button for the third time, the powerbox accepts that you have told it the three programming spaces (full left, centre and full right) and the yellow LED will turn off. To save the positions for the servo, move the second dial to “Save” and press “+”, with this the red LED will turn off and the settings have been saved. The second phase of programming the servos for your model: -Connect ONLY the first servo and programme it as normal (using transmitter sub trim and end point adjustments). If you wished to do so, you could also programme it with the powerbox using the same process as the other servos, as follows.. -Connect the second servo, however leave one of the ball links disconnected. Select on the first dial “A” and the second dial servo number “2”. To programme the centre, leave the transmitter stick in the centre and adjust the servo centre with the “+” and “-” keys. To assure that it is correctly centred, you should be able to put in the bolt for the loose ball link easily. -To programme the full throw, do exactly the same, holding the transmitter stick on full and adjust the servo position with the “+” and “-” keys, repeating the test that you can easily put the bolt through the ball link. -Repeat the same process for the opposite full throw. -As soon as you make one change, the red LED lights up, to indicate that a change has been made but has not yet been saved. To save the changes, move the second dial to “Save” and press the “+” button. the red LED will go out because the changes have now been saved, and your servos are sincronised correctly. I am currently using this powerbox in my Hangar-9 Extra 260, Krill Yak 55M and Krill Katana 39% and could not be happier with the results. La centralita Powerbox-Systems Champion RRS ha estado en la gama de Powerbox-Systems ya durante muchos años, y además siempre ha estado allí como uno de los mejores. Actualmente estoy usando dos de ellos en mis aviones de competición, y en este artículo detallaré porqué uso estos, las ventajas que tienen y cómo programarlo correctamente. Recientemente Powerbox-Systems ha renovado el diseño de la Champion RRS, incorporándole disipadores de calor (anodizados, como no!) y la capacidad de sacar 5.9V a los servos, o si el piloto quiere, cambiar la salida a 7.4V directos, diseñado para los nuevos servos ultratorque. Debido a la flexibilidad de esta centralita, me decanté por ella para el uso en mi nuevo Extra 260. Algunos de los puntos más fuertes y que más me gustaron han sido: -La capacidad de conectarle dos lipos y receptores en redundancia (si uno pierde la señal o le pasa algo, pasaría a la otra. Igualmente, si el segundo tiene mejor señal, coge de ésta), -Los LED para marcar el estado de las lipos y una pantalla para marcar la señal que recibe la centralita del receptor, -Y sobre todo, lo que en mi opinión separa a esta centralita de las demás, es que puedes programar los servos de tres de sus canales a través de la misma centralita mediante el mando de Powerbox. Esto evita la necesidad de usar “Matchboxes” o la obligatoriedad de usar servos Hitec por su programador. En total son 4 servos por cada uno de los 3 canales, es decir un total de 12 servos programables. La instalación en el avión es como la mayoría de centralitas y no podría ser más sencilla, usando un sistema de sujección parecida a la de los servos (ojales de goma, y tornillos). Los receptores se conectan mediantes los cables que incluye Powerbox. Puedes conectar los receptores en el orden que más te conveniene para la localización de todos los cables, pues no es necesario que la salida 1 del receptor sea la entrada 1 en la centralita. Dicho esto, sí es importante al tener dos receptores conectados en redundancia, que si a la entrada numero 1 de la centralita le conectamos el canal de la dirección del primer receptor, que el del segundo receptor tambien sea también el canal de dirección (ya que si no, al pasar de un receptor a otro se intercambiarían los mandos, cosa que queremos evitar!) El interruptor que viene con la centralita es segura ya que aunque desconectes el interruptor la centralita se quedará encendida. Para encenderlo es simplemente mantener pulsado el botón del power y con el LED central rojo en marcha, apretar los botones para encender la bateria I y II. Para apagarlo es exactamente igual. Se puede programar la centralita para su uso con NiCd, NiMh, Lipo o LiIon, aunque de serie viene ya programada con las baterías más usadas ahora mismo, las Lipo. El poder regular lo servos desde la centralita es una gran ayuda sobre todo en modelos de mayores tamaños que tienen más de un servo por superficie, ya que con esto se puede programar cada uno independiente y así evitar que se fuercen o se pelén entre sí. El ejemplo típico mío sería la del acrobático. Pueden así programar los mandos que llevan más de un servo por superficie, como pueden ser el ala, dirección, o profundidad. Programación de servos mediante la Powerbox-Systems Champion RRS: Para ajustar los servos se usa el programador de Powerbox que se conecta en un lateral de la centralita. Para asegurar un ajuste perfecto, se debe empezar con los recorridos de la emisora al 100%, sin sub trim y sin exponenciales. Para este ejemplo vamos a programar dos servos para que vayan por igual para mover los dos el mismo alerón. Están conectados a la entrada 3 de la centralita, que coincide con la salida programable “A”. El primer proceso es enseñarle a la centralita los recorridos de la emisora, y luego en un segundo paso programar los servos. Empezamos por enchufar el programador de Powerbox al lateral de la centralita. La primera fase es enseñarle a la centralita los recorridos de la emisora: -Movemos la primera ruleta del programador al “A” y la segunda ruleta a “Reset” -Ahora apretamos los botones “+” y “-” simultáneamente. (Se ilumina un led amarillo y uno rojo en el programador), -Dejamos el stick en el centro y apretamos de nuevo el “+” (para que la centralita se acuerde del centro) -Aguantamos el stick a un extremo y apretamos de nuevo el “+” (para que se acuerde de ese extremo) -Repetimos lo mismo para el otro extremo, apretando nuevamente el “+”. (para que se acuerde de este otro extremo) -Al presionar el “+” por tercera vez, la centralita reconoce sus tres posiciones (centro y dos extremos) y se se apaga el led amarillo. Para guardar lo que acabamos de hacer se debe mover la ruleta a “Save” y apretar de nuevo el “+” y se apagará el led rojo. La segunda fase es la de ajustar los servos: -Programar el primer servo de la forma tradicional, desde la emisora (reverse, sub-trim, y end point) Si lo preferís también podéis hacerlo desde la centralita, al igual que explico a continuación para el segundo servo. -Desconectar el primer servo del aleron (simplemente quitando el tornillo de la rotula) y conectar el segundo definitivamente. Para programar el segundo servo hay que seleccionar el canal “A” en la primera ruleta, y el servo “2” en el segundo. -Para centrar el servo, simplemente deja el stick en el centro y aprieta el botón “+” o “-” dependiendo de lo que necesites. Para saber que está centrado con el primer servo, es muy sencillo, con ambos conectados a la centralita, debes de poder volver a poner fácilmente el tornillo que has quitado del primero. -Para programar un extremo es el mismo proceso, aplicando stick a tope hacia el lado deseado y ampliar o recortar el mando obtenido mediante los botones “+” y “-“, repitiendo la prueba de poder pasar fácilmente el tornillo del primer servo. -El proceso para el otro extremo es el mismo. -Una vez cambias uno de los centros o extremos, se enciendo un LED rojo en el programador para identificar que has hecho cambios que todavía no están guardados. -Para guardar los cambios simplemente tienes que mover la segunda ruleta a “SAVE” y presionar el botón “+”. Se apagará el LED rojo y ya tienes los servos perfectamente sincronizados. Esta misma centralita la llevo en en Extra 260 de Hangar-9 y en el Yak 55M de Krill Model y no podría estar más contento con los resultados y rendimiento que está dando.

Powerbox-Systems: iGyro 3e

iGyro 3e Video Tutorial Gyros are slowly gaining ground from the tabu they where just a few years ago, now being used on anything from small Horizon BNF models up to the largest jets. Lets start by clearing up some myths and explaining what a actually gyro does: -It detects when the model is being changed direction when it was not instructed to do so by the pilot (radio). What this means, is that when we, the pilot, instruct a change of attitude (be it on ailerons, elevator or rudder) and the gyro then detects the models change of position or atitude, it understands that this is an intentional change, and therefore does not affect our input in any way. When the gyro detects a change of position, but there wasnt a stick input by the pilot, it detects that the movement was therefore undesireable, and due to a gust of wind or similar external influence, and will move the servos in such as way as to prevent said change, all this blisteringly quick resulting in it visually looking like the model didnt ever move, despite the winds best attempts. -Based on the above, when flying without any wind, the gyro will not have any affect on the model as there should be no unintended position changes as there are no external influences. Therefore flying in calm conditions should be the same with or without the gyro, we should only see a difference when windy. *There is an exception to the above, being when the gyro corrects inherant faults with the model, such as ugly wing wobbles or fishtailing, which should always be corrected by the gyro, whether it is windy or not. -A gyro is therefore a wonderfull electronic device which allows you to enjoy flying in calm conditions, even when the conditions are in fact not calm at all. What it wont do is fly the plane for you (its not an autopilot) and therefore wont mean that you can suddenly perform manouvers that you didnt know how to before installing the gyro. Powerbox-Systems iGyro 3e The iGyro 3e is a very simple but complete gyro. It incorporates within one single box, 3 gyros, one for each of the three axis that we use (ailerons, elevator and rudder) 1-Instalation is as simple as putting the iGyro in between the receiver and servo conections. 2-Se coloca un cable adicional entre el receptor y el iGyro para activar o desactivar el giroscopo, mediante una ruleta que además controlará la cantidad de ganancia 3-Desde el PC o el BlueCom (adaptador Powerbox bluetooth para usar el móvil) informaremos al iGyro la posición en la que está instalada. Desde aqui ajustaremos si es un ala delta (si fuera necesario) así como poder hacer un ajuste manual de las ganancias. 4-Revisar que el iGyro corrige bien. En el sentido que movamos la superficie, la superficie debe moverse hacia el mismo sentido. De lo contrario hay que invertirlo. -Para invertir un canal, pulsar durante 5 segundos el boton del giroscopo, se apagaran los led. -Se volverá a iluminar un único led. Para invertir ese canal, pulsar el boton brevemente de nuevo, cambiará el color del led. -Si queremos ajustar otro canal, mantener el boton pulsado hasta que el led individual se desplace hasta el canal deseado, y repetir el proceso anterior. 5-Para la prueba de vuelo, empezar sin giróscopo, y una vez ajustado, lentamente ir incrementando la ganancia hasta que el modelo ya no sea afectado por el viento. *Si el modelo empieza a “vibrar” (realizando una cola de pez) es porque tenemos demasiada ganancia. La forma mas rápida de hacerlo parar de vibrar, es quitar motor y tirar hacia arriba, en cuanto el modelo pierda velocidad dejará de temblar. Simplemente reducir la ganancia y probar de nuevo.

Powerbox-Systems: MagSensor

MagSensor New product by Powerbox-Systems: MagSensor At this years Jet Power, at the Powerbox-Systems stand we discovered their latest product, an add on for their powerboxes, the MagSensor. The idea is that it is a magnetic on/off switch which can subsitute the standard three button on/off switch from all their powerbox units. It has the advantage of being much smaller than the standard switch, therefore making installation in tight spaces easier. Also, due do it not needing to be accessable from the outside of the model, there is no need to cut large holes into the side of your fuselage. It connects into the exact same place as the standard on/off switch, so it is a very quick job to install the new MagSensor. To turn the model on, there are two green LED”s, one on each side of the sensor, one for each battery. Simply hold the magnet supplied in front of the first LED for approximately a second and the LED will turn on acompanied by a loud beep, to indicate that you have correctly turned on that battery. Now repeat the procedure in front of the second LED to turn on the second battery. To turn the model off, it is exactly the same procedure, once you hold the magent in front of one of the LED”s, after approximately a second the LED will go out, acompanied by a buzz, to indicate that you have correctly turned that battery off. Repeat the same for the second battery. For powerboxes with “consumption reset” or “black box” you can still access these options by waving the magnet from one LED to the other five times. MagSensor Nuevo producto de Powerbox-Systems: MagSensor En el Jet Power de este año, en el stand de Powerbox-Systems descubrimos un nuevo producto, un extra para sus centralitas, el MagSensor. La idea es que este interruptor magnético puede sustituir el interruptor de tres botones que siempre se han usado en sus centralitas.Tiene la ventaja de ser mucho más pequeño que el interruptor normal, por tanto la instalación en sitios reducidos es mucho más sencilla. Además, al no tener que ser accesible desde fuera del modelo, no e necesario cortar grandes agujeros en los laterales del fuselaje. Se conecta en el mismo sitio que el interruptor normal, por tanto es muy fácil y rápido cambiar el de serie por el MagSensor. Para encender el modelo, hay dos LED verdes, uno a cada lado del sensor, uno por batería. Simplemente acercar el imán a uno de los LED, y tras un segundo se encenderá el LED acompañado de un pitido. Esto indica que se ha encendido esa batería correctamente. Para la segunda batería, seguir el mismo proceso pero acercando el imán al segundo LED. Para apagar el modelo, es repetir el mismo proceso. Tras acercar el imán a uno de los LED durante un segundo, éste se apagará, acompañado de un pitido (distinto al de encendido) el cual indica que se ha apagado esa batería correctamente. Repetir lo mismo para la segunda batería. En las centralitas con funciones de “resetear consumo” o “black box” se puede acceder al pasar el imán entre un LED y el otro 5 veces.

OptiPower: 3.500mAh 2S 40C Lipo

OptiPower: 3.500mAh 2S 40C Lipo Lipo batteries come in all shapes and sizes. I use these 3.500mAh 2S as receiver packs, plugging into any of the Powerboxes that I always use in my large models. I continue going for the OptiPower brand even for low current receiver/servo applications simply due to their proven track record which I have already experienced with their larger packs. After all, just because the receiver is less power hungry than an electric motor, it is no less important! OptiPower: 3.500mAh 2S 40C Lipo Las baterías Lipo vienen en todo tipo de tamaños y formas. Uso estas de 3.500mAh de 2S para alimentar cual sea de las centralitas Powerbox que llevo en mis grandes modelos. Sigo optando por baterías de la marca OptiPower incluso para estas aplicaciones de bajo consumo por la fiabilidad que me han mostrado sus hermanos mayores cuando realmente los he puesto a prueba. El receptor tendrá poco consumo, pero no por ello es menos importante que un motor electrico!

MKS Servos: HV777

MKS Servos: HV777 The MKS HV777 was the first MKS servo that I tried, and I have never looked back since. MKS already known in other flying circles, such as helicopters and gliders, they have done an amazing job now on their plane series too. The HV777 has 38kg torque at a speed of 0.10s, more than enough for mostly any application. Add this to their amazing precision and centring and you can see why I like them. Having been flying with the same set for years now, I can truly say that they are one of if not the strongest servos I have tried, as prior to these I was breaking gears and cases on any other servo I tested. MKS Servos: HV777 El MKS HV777 fue el primer servo MKS que probé, y desde entonces no he mirado atrás. MKS ya era conocido en otras modalidades, como los helicopteros o veleros, pues ahora han aplicado la misma tecnología para los aviones también El HV777 tiene 38kg de torque a una velocidad de 0,10s, más que suficiente para casi cualquiera de sus posibles requisitos. Suma a esto su increible precisión y centrado, y entenderás porqué me gustan tanto. Habiendo estado volando con el mismo juego de servos durante años, puedo decir sin lugar a duda que son uno de, sino el, servo más resistente que he probado, ya que hasta probarlos estaba rompiendo piñones y carcasas de cualquier otro servo que probaba. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW_6tSLWrH8

OptiPower: 5.000mAh 2S 40C Lipo

OptiPower: 5.000mAh 2S 40C Lipo Lipo batteries come in all shapes and sizes. I use these 5.000mAh 2S as receiver packs, plugging into any of the Powerboxes that I always use in my large models. I continue going for the OptiPower brand even for low current receiver/servo applications simply due to their proven track record which I have already experienced with their larger packs. After all, just because the receiver is less power hungry than an electric motor, it is no less important! OptiPower: 5.000mAh 2S 40C Lipo Las baterías Lipo vienen en todo tipo de tamaños y formas. Uso estas de 5.000mAh de 2S para alimentar cual sea de las centralitas Powerbox que llevo en mis grandes modelos. Sigo optando por baterías de la marca OptiPower incluso para estas aplicaciones de bajo consumo por la fiabilidad que me han mostrado sus hermanos mayores cuando realmente los he puesto a prueba. El receptor tendrá poco consumo, pero no por ello es menos importante que un motor electrico!