Accesories

OptiPower Lipos

OptiPower Lipos With so many Lipo brands on the market, it is difficult to choose the right one for your next project. Most of these have somewhat unrealistic discharge ratings or are over-easy on “puffing” Having met with good friend Dunkan Bossion at the French eXtreme Flight Championship in 2013 and saw him show absolutely no remorse for his batteries and find them to finish his flights in the same state they started off in, I was amazed. After inquiring, and trying a number for myself, realised that these OptiPower Brand batteries actually do what they on the label! Real discharge, which results in real results, and less suffering for the actual packs themselves. With a huge range, from relatively “low” 35C Rx packs (that actually have more punch than many 60-70c packs on the market!) to their all mighty real 50C Ultra packs, with between 100-120C peak discharge and in almost any mAh capacity. Having used them in every type of model, from power supply to helicopters, EDF and even drones, can really say that they are a cut above any other pack that I have tried in the past. Just look at the pilots who entrust not only their models, but competition results, to OptiPower battery packs, and wonder why they all came to the same Opti decision! 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Scale Pilot (35%) – G-Force

Scale Pilot (35%) – G-Force Scale pilot, 35% scale by G-Force Aircraft. Our acrobatic models are also semi scale models, and with such large canopies, in my opinion it looks terrible to have an empty “office”. G-Force Aircraft feel the same, and produce large scale pilot figures, of which the photos below do not really do justice to! The weight is amazingly light and yet they still put up to the vibrations and high G forces that we put them through. Produced entirely in Spain and for very competitive prices, try one and you will repeat again and again!

Cables and connectors

Cables and connectors Powerbox-Systems as well as their electrical components also produce wire sets and connectors to the same high standard for us to use in our models. Most of them use smolten plastic to seal the soldered connextions as required in aviation, to assure a secure weld that can be connected and disconnected safely time and time again. Some of their wire sets include: -Extension leads for batteries, with Multiplex connectors The advantage of these extensions are the connectors, which have the smelted plastic over the wld, assuring that the weld cant break or be weakened with repeated use. -Double extention leads, with Multiplex connectors These connections allow us to connect two totally independent servos with just one connector, taking advantage that the Multiplex connectors have 6 pins, and each servo uses just 3 each (positive, negative and signal) As well as being very simple to make just the one connetion, this system has the added advantage of using Multiplex connectors, which are more secure than the standard Futaba/JR, and even more so with the smelted plastic ends. -Adaptors, Futaba/JR – Multiplex They have all types of adapters, such as this Futaba/JR to Multiplex, which has the same smelted plastic on the Multiplex end. http://www.powerbox-systems.com

OptiSmoke

OptiSmoke Being a new brand to Spain, it is with great pleasure that I can present you with a short video of the smoke liquid OptiSmoke, dealt by CentroRcLevante.net. Its goal as with all smokes is to make as much as possible, but with the extra refinement to provide a low mess easy to clean version. Take a look at the video, see what you think!

Smoke Pump

Smoke Pump Everyone loves having smoke in our planes, even though it does cause a lot of cleaning up after its use, we still can”t resist it! You have to admit, would you be able to have a petrol powered plane, big enough to have a smoke system in it, and not do it?! The smoke pump that I”ve used in recent years both fun and for competition has been the Powerbox-Systems Smoke Pump. It has the advantages of being quite small, so we can fix it where we want, and it has enough power for the plane to start smoking as soon as we flip the switch on the transmitter. There are two versions, one which is powered by a separate lipo to supply and the other version plugs into your powerbox receiver system, taking the current from the same unit where you have connected all your servos, thus avoiding an increase in weight and batteries. Correctly setting the pump up can at first seem complicated, however following these steps you will have the pump set up in no time: The pump is set up completely by the transmitter and the mix programmed in it and not a case of throttle up – throttle down -First we have to select the channel we want the pump to be plugged into, in our case “Aux1” -We start by adjusting the transmitter so that from a transmitter switch we can control the channel Aux1. -With the switch in the off direction the transmitter needs to be at -100% -With the switch in the on direction, the throttle needs to control the Aux1 channel from aproximately -50% to +100%. -The pump is now programed and should work progressively with the throtle stick when the switch is in the “On” position, and for the pump not to work when in the “Off” position. -Now simply adjust the maximum travel adjust until you have the maximum smoke liquid flow desired, and then also the minimum, so that you have very little flow when the throttle is at minimum. (It is recommended that you only start the pump as from 1 / 4 power to avoid flooding the exhausts when at idle) Now next time you want to smoke, you just need to turn the pump on, and make lots of smoke! El humo en los aviones siempre es algo curioso, todos nos quejamos de cómo queda el avión después de hecharlo, pero aún así no nos podemos resistir! Hay que admitirlo, a quién no le gusta poder hechar humo con su avión? La bomba de humo que yo he usado estos últimos años en competición ha sido la de Powerbox, tiene las ventajas de ser bastante pequeño, por lo que lo podemos fijar donde queramos, y además tiene la fuerza suficiente para que el avión empiece a echar humo nada más le des a la tecla. Hay dos versiones, una que lleva una lipo independiente para la bomba y otro que coge la corriente de la misma centralita donde lo tengas conectado para aquellos que les gusta cuidar el peso. La programación puede parecer complicada, pero siguiendo estos pasos lo tendrás programado enseguida: -La programación se hace desde la programación de la emisora, no es cuestión de programarlo a base de palanca “parriba” – palanca “pabajo” -Elegimos el canal que operará la bomba, pongámosle Aux1 -Ajustamos la emisora para que desde una tecla de la emisora, actúe el Aux1 desde -100 al +100 (bomba On-off) -Hecho esto hacemos una mezcla del canal del motor al canal Aux1 para que la bomba funcione de manera progresiva. (Es recomendable que sólo arranque la bomba a partir de 1/4 de gas aproximadamente para evitar ahogamientos del motor a ralentí) -La mezcla debe estar activada por la misma tecla que le hemos puesto antes al Aux1, cuando la tecla está desactivada, la mezcla también, por lo que la bomba se queda en -100 (Off) -Al darle a la tecla activará la bomba y la mezcla, la mezcla la haremos desde aproximadamente 0 al +100 jugando un poco con los finales para que arranque a partir de 1/4 gas, y de esta forma, a medida que apliques más motor, se mezcla de forma que la bomba de humo eche más humo. -Ya solo queda enchufar la bomba ,comprobar que todo funciona, y a echar humo! Si aun con todo eso no te va, puedes hacerle una programacion de cero: -Activa la mezcla en la emisora, pero para que sea totalmente lineal con el gas (desde –100% hasta +100%) -Desconectar el cable de señal, dejando conectada el de la corriente -Encender emisora y avion, con la tecla de la mezcla en posicion “activado” -Conectar el cable desconectado. -Ahora estas en modo “programacion de recorridos” y tienes que hacer lo mismo que con un motor electrico (mover el stick del gas de Relentin-Maximo-Relentin) Ya lo tienes programado, simplemente ajusta los recorridos, para tener el caudal deseado